Building a PVC Pedal Launcher
last updated 12/24/2006
(still under construction as of 06/16/02)
A pedal launcher is a fun project to build if your electrics are getting too big to launch by hand. Pedal Launchers are simple to construct and are relatively inexpensive since it is made of common PVC (PolyVinyl Chloride) pipe and a piece of wood. The parts can be obtained from your local hardware store. An eZone thread here has lots of great pictures and descriptions of other variations upon the theme. The September 2001 issue of S&E Modeler magazine has an article describing the construction of a Pedal Launcher. There are multiple ways to build a launcher and experimentation is highly encouraged.
Here is a picture of an almost completed launcher
A text shopping list is here and should be printed out to take with you to the hardware store. Look at the pictures of the components before you go shopping so you are familiar with what they are and where they go.
Tools required
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Hacksaw or plastic pipe cutter, cutoff saw, anything that will cleanly cut PVC pipe. |
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Drill with 1/2" drill bit |
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Small can of PVC cement. |
Since the largest piece of PVC is 5 feet, how you purchase it depends upon your hardware store. Mine sold it as 10 foot sections, but five sections of 5 foot pipe is fine. Two of these will be used for the top launch rails that are 5 feet each. Another one of these will be cut in half for the bottom middle section. The remainding sections will be used for the support legs, small joining pieces, etc. I would highly suggest building the entire assembly before any permanent PVC cement is used.
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Step 1
Cut off four 10 inch sections of pipe. These will be the legs. Attach a 3/4" end cap on each one. Cut two 2.5 foot sections of pipe for the bottom middle piece Cut two 5 foot sections of pipe for the two top rail pieces |
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Step 2
Build four support legs by cutting two 2.5 inch sections, and two 8 inch sections. These will be used to hold up the support rails. Using the 1" T sections as a base, insert the 1"-3/4" adapter in the middle section of the T. (If you managed to find some 1" to 3/4" T sections, then you can skip the adapter pieces. Some stores carry them and others do not.) Insert either a 2.5 or 8 inch length of 3/4" pipe finish off with a 3/4" 90 degree elbow at the top |
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You will need 2 support posts of each length, short and long. |
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Step 3
With a hacksaw, take both of the 2" / 1" T sections and cut off the ends of the T. This will be used as a stake holder to keep it in the ground. The middle section has the 1 inch diameter and will slide over one of the ends of the X piece. |
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Step 4
Carefully drill a hole in one of the 3/4" X sections. This will be used to hold the retaining bolt. You may have been able to find a cotter pin arrangement in your hardware store. I could not find one and had to settle for a 3/8" carriage bolt and washer.
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Step 5
Push the carriage bolt through your hole and then apply the washer and nut. Another view of the finished retaining pin |
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This will be used at the front of the frame to hold the
bungee cord.
A steel ring will fit over the bolt and wood. The ring will be released when you step on the other end which pushes the ring off of the bolt. |
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Step 6
Assemble the front end of the frame by sliding a 1 inch T vertical support piece onto the 10" leg piece on both sides. Attach the cut down 2 inch T section on the front. Insert a 2.5 foot section of pipe into the opposite end. |
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Step 7
The vertical supports will be loose and can be moved back and forth to support different widths of planes. Repeat this step with the other end pieces and the remaining 2.5 foot section of pipe. |
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Step 8
Build the fulcrum point for the board. Cut two 1 inch sections of pipe as elbow joiners and a 5 inch section for the board to rest on. Place an end cap on the end of the 5 inch section. |
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A completed fulcrum point with both of the 2.5 foot sections
into either end. The pipe should bend towards the front where the release mechanism (carriage bolt) is. This provides a few more inches of leverage. |
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this
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Step 9
Attach the two 5 foot sections and you are almost done with the frame assembly. Cut your pipe insulation to 5 foot lengths and wrap them around the two support rails on the top so the seams of the insulation are on the bottom. You want a smooth surface for your plane to ride on. |
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Here is the foam insulation. The blue stuff is double sided tape that came with it to help hold it in place. If your insulation did not come with tape, some electrical tape works great to hold it in place. |
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Step 10
Drill an appropriate sized hole in your wood. This was 1 3/4 inches from the end, however make sure to measure yours. This is a 1/2 inch hole so the 3/8 inch bolt can easily fit and slide through it. The metal ring attached to nylon rope will slip onto this bolt. One piece of nylon rope will attach to the bungee cord with another one attaching to your plane. When you step on the other end it will push the ring up and off of the bolt. Put a coat of weather proofing stain or polyurethane on it if you have some. |
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Step 11
Carefully measure where the 3/4 inch pipe straps should go, drill some small pilot holes, then the #8 3/4" wood screws. It can be awkward to do and it helps to turn the entire frame over. |
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Almost done.
Let Kayla loose on it for some QA checks to help ensure durability. If it can survive her, it will survive darn near anything! |
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Looks fairly straight
If you have a threaded bolt as the release pin, you may need to wrap some strapping tape around the end to cover up the threads and make a smooth surface against the wood. |
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Step 12 So where should the PVC cement go? The pulling force of the bungee or tubing will be straight down the middle of the frame. It is critical to firmly cement those areas shown with the red arrows. Depending upon your mode of transportation, you can either cement other areas or leave it as a friction fit for disassembly to get it into your car.
The five foot length might be a bit large for some vehicles and a four foot launcher is just as easy. Simply cut two 4 foot and two 2 foot lengths for the support and middle rails. If you make the launcher shorter in length, remember to adjust the angle by shortening the 10 inch vertical supports to something more appropriate like 8 inches. Play with it and see what works. |
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As soon as the bungee cord comes in, I will be able to post some field tests. Most likely it will be cut down to 4 feet, maybe shorter just to make it easier to move around.